Newsletter #13                                                              L. L. Burnett
INTERMECCANICA OWNERS' CLUB                              R. D. 3
Spring 1976                                                              Huntington, NY 11743
On April 20th we had ten new members and, after expenses, $230 in the kitty. bulletin #5 was sent to everyone who might be interested. Our current new members are:
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Members with inquiries or data for the newsletters should contact me. For literature, additions to the bibliography, or xeroxes therefrom, you should contact Bill Stamm. I can supply back newsletters gratis for those with gaps.
(removed list)
Backup Light Lenses (continued from previous issues)
The values of having exact name, number, and motor size in the registry (as well as part numbers) is emphasized by the fun were having trying to get straight on lenses. Larry Simon's 72 has a pinch-hitting Peugeot 404. Mark Schlafman's 71 (50422414) has Leart 4030 (not 3040) . Steve Wray's 69 IM5-59228314 with a 302 has a Lucas light [available from AUTOWORLD, 701 N. Keyser, Scranton, PA 18508, (717)-344-7258] . Dave DaCosta's lens says Bosch FE20,SAE R67, I've seen this on a non-404 Renault. Torino #14 now has a perfectly fitting lens marked "Made in Spain"; interchange unknown. Is that "perfectly clear"?
Caliper Repair Kit
Early numbers in Newsletter #2 were wrong for Steve Wray's car (see above) . He used kits for Volvo 122S secured from Volvo dealer. Exact fit. (He notes similarity except for bolt pattern of Volvo disc to Intermeccanica - that's worth checking out)
Special Insurance
Try J. C. Taylor, Inc. 8701 West Chester Pike, Upper Darby, Pa 19082 (215)-853-1300 or JA8-6450 (J. Horowitz).
Gas Tank
Nick Kielburger used a 67 to 69 Camaro Firebird. Perfect fit, price $15 at junkyard. The original sender could be soldered to the tube which connects the fuel line, or you have to buy a sender for a Stewart-Warner gauge.
Rear Spring Pads
Sid Porter reports that his 205-14 tires no longer rub thanks to use of four Mercedes pads #111-322-0885, $3.25 each.
Steering Shaft Rubber Flex Joint
Jaguar #C16432 fit Sid Porter's car. However, Terry Schulte didn't find the clearance so he adapted an early Volkswagen joint. Different gaps for different chaps.
Wiring Fires
In addition to keeping connections tight and insulation intact, Dan Taylor reports that it's wise to examine the point where wiring harness passes through the fire wall. No wire to wall contact can be allowed.
Exhaust Tips
Contact Faza 2538 S. Ridgefield, Daytona, Fla. 32019, (904)-767-1444. They can also provide a flat muffler (T. Haritos).
Source for Daimler SP250 Tonneau cover (S. Porter)
Turn signal assembly for steering column for 68 Torino 50049 (N. Kiel-burger)
FM + cassette radio (C. Minga)
Lever for turn signal assembly (T. Schulte)
One or more serviceable Pirelli 185-14 with CN-72 tread pattern. (L. Burnett)
Somewhere in California there exists someone named Elliott Ashbaugh with an Omega he bought from Mark Eckhouse.
By now you've sent Steve Olson a valuation letter - right? Well if you need an expert opinion on car values you or your insurance company may contact Frank Silvestry and/or Mark Eckhouse.
Early Front-end Repair
This exposition, furnished by David DaCosta, covers upper ball joint conversion and Hawk arm bushing modification:
(Italia Coupe - #40073 - red - 302 V8)
I. Upper Control Arm
A. Upper Ball Joints
1. Removal - To remove old ball joints one must first cut welds with either a high speed cutting disc or air arc. Carbon arc could be used but it is messier. Air arc is best because fabricated control arm tends to get in the way of a disc.
2. Once welds are cut simply unscrew old ball joints from control arm - DO NOT DISCARD YET.
3. New ball joint - Acquire Moog K-772 or TRW #10162 (this joint is for an old Plymouth Valiant). Note that the O.D. of the body is a perfect fit but the stem is too large.
4. Machine the stem to the old ball joint dimensions. We used the body for the chuck and drilled a hole in the stem end for centering. If your car has the same parts as #40073, you will notice that the ball portion of the new joint will be about 1/4" farther away from the control arm than the ball of the old joint. Putting minor details like this aside (and remembering that clearance for wheel weights is reduced), start the taper of the new stem the same distance from the ball portion as the start of the taper of the old stem.
nl13ballj.jpg (13280 bytes)
5. Screw the new joint easily back into the control arm. Heat helps but the special socket (available at most service stations) with a 3' breaker bar is really about the only way. In the case of #40073, re-welding was not necessary.
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B. Control Arm Bushings - Surprise replacement
1. New bushings - Studebaker Hawk is close but requires modification as follows:
2. Surprise #1 - Bushing is too long and must be shortened
   a. Measure A (see diagram above)
   b. Measure B (from outside edge of bushing hole)
   c. C = (B-A)/2 [on Italia #40073 C = 13/16"1
   d. Using a hacksaw (keeping extra blades handy) cut outside of bushing through rubber to the inside sleeve at C - (1/16)". Remove end piece and discard.
3. Surprise #2 - Inside sleeve is hardened.
    a. Using a good file edge file a slot on inside sleeve at C.
    b. Hacksaw can now be started - saw through inside sleeve. (This is where the extra blades come in handy.)
4. Surprise #3 - Bushing fits too loosely in control arm.
    a. Measure D & E and subtract D from E (Italia #40073 average E - D = .013"1
    b. obtain 1/2" shim stock about (E - D)/2 + .005" thick (I used .010)
    c. Cut shim stock to circumferential length and insert into control a= bushing hole.
    d. Taking care not to allow shim to slip, press bushing into control arm.
    e. Tack shim to control arm to hold in place - you could tack to the bushing itself but the rubber has already been vulcanized.
nl13ca.jpg (20450 bytes)
C. Lower Control Arm (A-arm also) bushing fit-up same as preceding procedure.
D. Another interesting feature of #40073 is a steel brace across the "legs" of the A-arm. If this is a factory installed brace it is pretty Mickey Mouse but can be improved by replacing with thicker steel (10 ga.) Steel brace is welded at the points of contact and two holes are cut for socket access to the control arm bolts. (see sketch at the top of the next page)
nl13aarm2.jpg (16930 bytes)
1969 Italia Coupe #40073
Upper Ball Joints - Moog 772 or TRW 10162*
Tie Rod End - TRW ES282L**
Bushings - Control Arm(8) - Studebaker Hawk***
Rear Axle Seals - National 8777
Front Brake Pads - Raybestos D83
Rear Brake Pads - Pennsylvania D97
*Must modify stem to fit
**Probably not similar to original equipment
***Modified to fit - Newsletter #3 showing Matt Wolff's bushing suggestion (upper control arm) indicates that Fiat bushing 4007973 is much different than the bushings I got from S&V (@ $6.50 each) and may not have to be modified. Wolff's sketch looks very much like what Torino 14 has - which is different from Italia 40073.
NOTE: David says his car "has lots of unorthodox replacement parts so be wary..." His philosophy is that it's faster to modify a part that's close than to search for exact replacement.

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